Ferret
|
|||||||||||
| Exam and Consultations Vaccinations Parasite Testing & Deworming Dental Health Diagnostic Testing Diet & Nutrition Microchipping Home Environment Cascade Ferret Network of Portland, OR Interesting Ferret Articles Ferret Favorite Links |
|||||||||||
Our doctors believe the physical exam is the cornerstone to good medicine. During the exam, your doctor will review the history form you filled out prior to your office visit and ask you questions to determine how your ferret is doing. For ferrets 0-3 years of age, we recommend annual exams.
Canine distemper is a contagious, almost always fatal disease in ferrets. You can expose your indoor ferret by walking through your yard where an infected raccoon, dog, or other susceptible animal has been. Distemper vaccines should be given at 8, 11, and 14 weeks, then updated annually. A rabies vaccine should be given at 3 months of age (separately from distemper vaccine), and boosted annually. Due to the increased incidence of vaccine reactions in ferrets, we recommend that clients stay in the reception area for 20 minutes after vaccinations are given. The ferret should be observed for vomiting, diarrhea, and collapse, itching, or hives. After 20 minutes, check in with our front desk to let them know things are okay before you leave.
Though uncommon, there are several types of intestinal parasites that can infect ferrets. We recommend a fecal float test at the time of your first visit. We have special lab equipment to process the sample. Please bring in a fresh stool sample that you collect the same day as your exam. You can use a zip lock baggie or disposable tupperware to store the sample in your refrigerator. If you are unable to collect a sample, we may be able to collect one at the time of your exam.
Daily teeth brushing will greatly slow the development of periodontal disease. We can show you how to brush your ferret’s teeth – just ask us. Professional dental teeth cleanings and periodontal treatments may need to be performed annually starting as early as 2-3 years of age depending on how diligently you brush their teeth.
Blood tests and urinalysis are recommended annually after 3 years of age. Due to the high incidence of insulinoma, a common disorder where excessive amounts of insulin are produced, we recommend a blood glucose level check every 6 months for ferrets three years old and onward. Early detection of disease can increase lifespan and quality of life. Even if your ferret is completely healthy, it is good to have baseline lab values to compare with later.
Ferrets are obligate carnivores like cats. For information on ferret diets, see Rethinking the Ferret Diet, by Susan Brown, DVM at for a new perspective on ferret diets and the importance of avoiding grains. Dry Food: We highly recommend Innova EVO-Ferret dry food and WYSONG Ferret Archetypal-1. Wet Food: We recommend a good-quality canned diet for cats like EVO or Wellness. You may even want to consider feeding a raw diet like Rad Cat.
Ferrets are escape artists. We highly recommend having them microchipped.
Kenneling and Exercise A ferret kennel should be a minimum of about 36” long, 24” deep, and 24” high for one to two ferrets. See our links page for good examples of kennels and places to get them. With any kennel, the wire bottom must be completely covered to protect little ferret feet. Good quality linoleum or vinyl flooring scraps work well (get the kind that doesn’t curl at the edges). These can be easily cut to fit the bottom of the kennel and any shelves. There is a lot of pre-made ferret bedding or you can use sweatshirts, soft blankets, etc. Don’t buy kennels with little shelves instead of nearly complete or at least halfway upper levels as they aren’t really big enough to be functional. Therefore, you end up with a 1-level kennel and a lot of wasted space. Provide a sleeping area in the kennel that is completely dark. There are many ways to achieve this:
By the way, having cozy, comfy, dark sleeping areas outside of the kennel will greatly reduce the chance that your ferret will feel the need to dig into your sofa or chair to find that dark space. The kennel needs a litter box that is large enough for the ferret to climb into. Most ferrets will not use those little triangular ones sold as ferret litter boxes. Marshall Farms makes some good choices, including a high-backed lock-on ferret litter pan. If you don’t get the lock-on pan, just drill 2 holes and wire it onto the side of the kennel. See “the litter box battle” if you are having trouble with getting your ferret to use the litter box.
We work closely with Cascade Ferret Network of Portland, Oregon. They’re a great organization dedicated to the welfare of domestic ferrets. They specialize in providing temporary homes and adopting opportunities for abandoned, abused, or otherwise homeless ferrets. For more information, check out their website.
We’ve compiled some helpful articles we thought you might enjoy. Ferrets – Bite Training
When Dr. Ross Weinstein is unavailable to help your ferret, we refer to the following doctors: Mark Burgess, DVM Katrina Ramsell, DVM Patricia Huff, DVM Call for doctor choice Call for doctor choice American Ferret Association Archive of Ferret Health Articles Cascade Ferret Network (CFN) – ferret shelter Disease Information, updated by Bruce Williams, DVM Ferret Diet (raw food diet) Ferrets for Dummies Ferret Health Care – Reference material, articles, and forums Ferrets Magazine General ferret information and lots more – Ferret Central General ferret information and lots more – Ferret Universe General ferret issues – Ferret Mailing List Oregon Ferret Shelter The Ferret Store Quality Cage |

